Pokemon Card Condition Guide: NM, LP, MP, HP Explained with Real Examples
If there's one skill that separates profitable Pokemon card sellers from those who lose money, it's accurately assessing card condition. I've been grading cards at Break Check Barragan for over a decade, and I still pick up every single card with the same careful routine. Condition determines price, and getting it wrong costs you money on both sides of the transaction.
Let me give you a real example. Last month I bought a Shining Charizard from a seller who listed it as Near Mint for $350. When it arrived, it had clear corner whitening on three corners and a light surface scratch. That card was Lightly Played at best, worth about $280. That $70 difference is real money, and it's the kind of mistake that erodes trust and profit.
Why Condition Matters More Than You Think
The Price Impact Is Massive
Here's a real-world breakdown using a Base Set Holo Blastoise (current market):
- Near Mint (NM): $180
- Lightly Played (LP): $144 (80% of NM)
- Moderately Played (MP): $108 (60% of NM)
- Heavily Played (HP): $54-72 (30-40% of NM)
That's a $126 difference between the best and worst condition of the same card. Multiply that across hundreds of cards in your inventory and you're talking about thousands of dollars in value that hinges on accurate condition assessment.
Buyer Expectations Are Non-Negotiable
Online buyers expect exactly what the listing says. On TCGPlayer, "Near Mint" has a specific meaning, and if your card doesn't meet that standard, you'll face returns, negative feedback, and platform penalties. I've seen sellers lose their TCGPlayer Direct status because of consistent overgrading.
Near Mint (NM): The Gold Standard
Definition: A card that looks essentially new with minimal signs of handling.
What to look for:
- Corners: Sharp and clean with no visible whitening or bending
- Edges: Smooth and even with no nicks or peeling
- Surface: No scratches, scuffs, print lines, or indentations visible under direct light
- Centering: Doesn't need to be perfect, but shouldn't be drastically off-center
- Back: Clean, no whitening along edges, consistent color
Price position: 100% of market value. This is the baseline all other conditions are measured against.
Real talk: Truly Near Mint vintage cards are uncommon. Most cards that have been in binders, traded between kids, or stored in shoeboxes for 20 years have some wear. Be honest with yourself. When in doubt, grade down.
Pro tip: Examine NM cards under bright, direct light at multiple angles. Surface scratches that are invisible under normal lighting become obvious when light hits them at an angle.
Lightly Played (LP): The Sweet Spot
Definition: A card showing minimal wear that's visible upon close inspection but doesn't detract from the card's overall appearance.
Acceptable wear includes:
- Light corner whitening on one or two corners
- Minor edge wear that's only visible on close inspection
- A very faint surface scratch that you have to look for
- Slight handling wear on the back
Pricing: Approximately 80% of NM value.
Using our Blastoise example: NM is $180, so LP is approximately $144.
Why LP is the sweet spot for buyers: Many collectors prefer buying LP cards because the discount is significant but the card still displays beautifully. I sell more LP vintage singles than any other condition because budget-conscious collectors know they're getting great value.
Seller tip: LP cards are your highest-margin inventory when buying collections. Sellers often price them as NM, but if you buy correctly and grade honestly, your profit margin on LP cards can exceed 40%.
Moderately Played (MP): Visible but Not Damaged
Definition: A card with obvious wear that's immediately noticeable but still structurally intact.
What you'll see:
- Noticeable corner whitening on multiple corners
- Edge wear visible without close inspection
- Surface scratches that are easily seen
- Minor creasing that doesn't break the surface of the card
- Visible back whitening along edges
- Some clouding or haziness on the holo surface
Pricing: Approximately 60% of NM value.
Using our Blastoise example: NM is $180, so MP is approximately $108.
Who buys MP cards? Players who want the card for decks, budget collectors filling binder gaps, and collectors who plan to get them graded for sentimental reasons. Don't overlook this market. I move MP vintage holos consistently because I price them fairly and describe the condition honestly.
The MP trap: Many sellers try to list MP cards as LP, thinking they'll get more money. This backfires with returns and negative feedback that costs far more than the price difference. Honest grading builds repeat customers.
Heavily Played (HP): The Budget Tier
Definition: A card with significant wear, damage, or structural issues that are immediately obvious.
Damage types include:
- Heavy creasing or bends that break the card surface
- Significant corner damage including soft corners or missing corners
- Major edge wear with peeling or fraying
- Deep scratches or scuffs on the surface
- Water damage, staining, or discoloration
- Writing, stickers, or adhesive residue
- Significant back whitening or damage
Pricing: 30-40% of NM value (depending on severity).
Using our Blastoise example: NM is $180, so HP is approximately $54-72.
Don't skip HP cards. I bought an HP Base Set Charizard for $45 last year and sold it for $120 within a week. Players need playable copies, and not everyone can afford NM. There's a strong market for honestly-priced HP cards, especially for iconic Pokemon.
Condition vs Grade: Raw Cards and Professional Grading
Understanding how raw conditions translate to professional grades is critical if you're considering submitting cards for grading. For a full deep-dive, check out our card grading strategy guide.
General translation:
- NM raw = PSA 7-8 typically (PSA 9-10 requires exceptional centering, surfaces, and edges)
- LP raw = PSA 5-6 typically
- MP raw = PSA 3-4 typically
- HP raw = PSA 1-2 typically
The grading math: A PSA 8 Base Set Blastoise sells for about $250. Grading costs $20-50 depending on service level. If you have a strong NM raw copy, grading can add $50-80 in value. But a LP copy that comes back as a PSA 5 might actually sell for less than a raw LP card after grading fees.
My rule: Only submit raw NM cards for grading, and only when the potential grade increase adds at least 2x the grading cost in value.
Common Condition Mistakes Sellers Make
Overgrading (The #1 Problem)
Every new seller thinks their cards are NM. I did it too. When I started, I listed everything as NM because "it looks good to me." My return rate was 18%. After I got honest with condition assessment, returns dropped to under 3%.
Ignoring Back Whitening
This one catches experienced sellers too. You flip the card over, the front looks great, and you list it as NM. But the back has whitening along the top edge that drops it to LP. Always check the back under good lighting.
Not Checking Under Direct Light
Surface scratches on holo cards are nearly invisible under normal room lighting. Tilt the card under a bright desk lamp and watch for scratches to appear. I've caught scratches on cards that looked flawless to the naked eye. This is especially important for high-value holos.
Confusing Print Defects with Condition
Some imperfections are printing defects, not wear. Print lines, ink dots, and slight off-centering from the factory are manufacturing issues, not condition issues. However, they still affect value and should be noted in your listing. Learn more about evaluating card values in our card values guide.
The 30-Second Condition Assessment Workflow
Here's the exact process I use for every card that comes through my inventory. Do this under bright, direct lighting with the card held at arm's length.
- Front face check (5 seconds): Hold the card face-up. Look for obvious damage, creasing, or staining.
- Surface angle check (5 seconds): Tilt the card slowly under direct light. Watch for scratches, scuffs, or surface imperfections.
- Corner inspection (5 seconds): Check all four corners for whitening, soft corners, or bending. Use a loupe for high-value cards.
- Edge inspection (5 seconds): Run your eye along all four edges. Look for nicks, peeling, or whitening.
- Back check (5 seconds): Flip and inspect the back for whitening, scratches, or damage.
- Final grade (5 seconds): Based on the worst feature you found, assign the condition. The card's grade is determined by its weakest attribute, not its best.
The golden rule: Grade to the worst flaw. If the front is NM but the back has LP-level whitening, the card is LP. Period.
Accurate condition assessment is the foundation of a trustworthy Pokemon card business. Get this right, and everything else becomes easier: pricing, customer satisfaction, and long-term reputation. For more on professional grading services, read our Card Grading Strategy Guide.
Next Read: Dive into our post on Understanding Pokemon Card Values to learn how condition works alongside rarity, demand, and market trends to determine what your cards are really worth.